Is Gleneagles the ultimate minibreak?

Rexa Vella

Is Gleneagles the ultimate minibreak?

What Ennismore has offered is glamour, drama. It’s there in the Strathearn, a grand dining room nominally serving “modern-Scottish”, but really offering something that feels like dining on the Titanic: singers and saxophones swing on the bandstand, candles flicker, caviar glistens. Silver trolleys go by with pink roasts and Wellingtons; plates of seafood cocktails are rushed by, crabs and lobsters fighting over the scallops. Souffles wobble, and so do some of the customers at the end of the night. It’s there in the American Bar, all mirrors and gilt, where cocktails are concepts, but classics still go out every other round, and couples sit as if their outfits might be stitched together.

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